Fenix, a new Greek restaurant in London's Mayfair, is a maximalist's dream, offering a vibrant and opulent dining experience. The restaurant, an offshoot of the Manchester institution, Fenix, is a bold statement in a world of minimalist, single-sheet menus. The interior, a cross between an Aegean god's haven and the White Company's bedding department, is a feast for the eyes. But is the food as extravagant as the setting? In my opinion, Fenix is a restaurant that knows how to have fun. The menu, featuring small plates and a set menu, offers a range of Greek dishes with a modern twist. The moussaka, for example, is deconstructed and rich, while the taramasalata is smoked and silky. The food here feels serious, but the staging is flamboyant, with cocktails that taste like gin and orange Fanta and dishes doused in cod's roe or caviar. What makes Fenix particularly fascinating is its ability to balance the serious and the playful. The fried calamari is crisp and light, while the tuna, truffle, and caviar tartare is top-quality. However, the restaurant's maximalist approach may not appeal to everyone. The vanilla creme brulee on the dessert menu, for example, is a nod to France, not Greece. But the point is that Fenix is saying, 'Who can resist a creme brulee?' In my view, Fenix is a restaurant that knows how to have fun and is thoroughly fit for purpose. It's a place where you can indulge in a maximalist dining experience without breaking the bank. The set menu, for example, offers two courses for £34.50 and three courses for £39.50, all plus drinks and service. So, if you're looking for a restaurant that knows how to have fun and is open to all, Fenix is the place for you.
